Here's a front view of the '97+ F150 Jackson
Power Slider. It does have the all-glass look to the edges. The
only frame that is visible from the outside is the center
portion that holds the movable glass pieces. The frame is very
thin and looks great! You can also see that it has the solar
privacy tint to the glass. Should match factory Ford tint
perfectly.
Here's
another full-size view from the rear. Again, very clean lines
and should look great in the truck. You can also see from this
picture that this slider is a bolt-in and mounts just like the
factory glass. These are perfect-fit replacements for the
factory glass. The motor is mounted on the lower right hand
corner (looking at this picture) and is barely noticeable.
|
|
Here's a close-up view of the motor assembly. Again, it is very
small and unobtrusive. On the F150s with headrests, the motor
unit will probably be completely hidden from view! You can also
see the small white plug attached to the wiring pigtail. This
kit is complete and basically plug in and it works. The only
exception depends on where you mount the switch. The wiring
harness may need to be spliced on some trucks to get some extra
length. 
The F150 window comes complete with all
materials necessary for window installation. Wiring harness with
plug-in connectors on the ends, switch and bezel, inline fuse
holder and fuse, and a fuse tap. Also included is a length of
butyl tape necessary for sealing the window into the window
opening. |
|
The install into our 2001 F150 SuperCrew was
easy. It took about an hour to remove the old window and install
the new one.
The first step was to remove the interior
trim pieces from behind the rear seat and the side trim behind
the seatbelts. The 12 nuts were then removed that hold in the
window. There are 4 along the bottom, 2 on each side, and
4 along the top. The headliner does NOT need to be removed as we
just pulled it down a little, taking care not to crease it, and
removed the nuts with an open end wrench. Next, using a 3"
wide scraper, we loosened the seal on the old window and pushed
outward lightly as we went. It helps to have a friend on the
outside at this point to help with removal. We
then cleaned the pinch-weld of the old butyl, first with a
scraper to get the big pieces, and then with alcohol to remove
the rest. After the pinch-weld was clean, the next step was to
prepare the new power slider for installation. This is probably
one of the most important steps. We applied the butyl tape
(supplied with the window) to the frame of the new window,
starting at the bottom center, and followed the edge of
the frame all the way around. There
are 3 places to pay close attention to when applying the butyl
tape. There are 2 notches in the frame, on the top edge on both
sides, that the butyl tape has to go below. Also, on our SCrew,
there is a "dip" in the pinch-weld below the
brake light/cargo light. We allowed for this indention when
applying the butyl tape to the new slider. Look closely at the
next 2 pictures for butyl placement in these areas.
We then inserted the slider into the
opening, being careful not to disturb the butyl tape, and
hand-tightened the nuts. After making sure the slider was
centered, we then tightened the nuts to specs. Once we were sure
the window was in place, we used a garden hose to test for
leaks. We found no leaks. The manufacturer recommends removing
the window and re-applying new butyl tape to correct any leaks.
The next step is to run the wiring and
install the switch. (To be continued...)
|